My Marrakesh...
Hello everyone
I hope you are all well.
I have been fortunate enough to visit Marrakesh many times, mainly for work but it never feels like work. Every time it feels like a big wonderful adventure. I have just returned from a buying trip. A 36 hour in and out but in those 36 hours I had 6 meetings and walked 40, 000 steps, admittedly 5000 of those were allocated to getting lost in the souk but it was magical....
Prior to writing this I asked the team in the office, none of whom have visited Marrakesh, how they imaged it to be. They use the words chaotic, vibrant, colourful, crazy, mad, scary, lively, noisy. All said they would be nervous about visiting because of the cultural diversity however all would really like to visit. So here goes, this is My Marrakesh a city and culture I have grown to love and respect enormously. Lots of tips from Sara (a follower) and Tara Matthews a great friend...
Moroccan culture is rich, diverse, and deeply rooted in centuries of history, blending Arab, Berber, African, and European influences. Here are some key aspects of Moroccan culture:
Almost everyone speaks English however if you speak French it will be welcomed by locals. Arabic is the official language and Berber is also widely spoken.
Islam is the dominant religion, and the majority of Moroccans practice Sunni Islam.
Religion plays a significant role in daily life, from prayers and fasting during Ramadan to observances of Islamic holidays. As a tourist, be respectful of their practices. Women wear Hijab, a modest headscarf that covers the hair, neck, and often the shoulders, while leaving the face visible. It is a symbol of modesty in Islam, and many Muslim women choose to wear it for religious or cultural reasons. As a tourist, women are not expected to cover their hair however my suggestion would be, dress modestly. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marrakesh
Moroccans are incredibly respectful of their elders and place high value on family, community, and social bonds.
When greeting, a handshake or cheek-kissing (among friends and family) is common, though respect for personal space is important.
Interestingly, when I first visited many years ago it was very difficult to get eye contact with another woman. Today they are much more welcoming/friendly and have clearly grown to accept tourism in fact so friendly and warm.
Hospitality is central to Moroccan culture. Offering guests food and mint tea is a common practice. Offers of mint tea will be plentiful. It is delicious however often very sweet. Do not be afraid to ask for it without sugar.
Moroccan food is known for its complex flavors and spices. Do not leave without trying a Tagine. which is a traditional North African dish. A tagine (or tajine) is a slow-cooked stew, often made with lamb, chicken, or beef, and a variety of vegetables and dried fruits like apricots or raisins. It's named after the earthenware pot it's traditionally cooked in, which has a conical lid designed to circulate steam and keep the dish moist.
In Morocco, alcohol is available, but its consumption is influenced by cultural and religious practices. Morocco is a predominantly a Muslim country, and Islam prohibits the consumption of alcohol. Despite this, alcohol is still sold and consumed in certain areas, particularly in larger cities like Casablanca, Marrakesh, and Rabat, as well as in tourist resorts and international hotels. You can find alcohol in supermarkets, licensed bars, and restaurants that cater to tourists. If you'd like to drink It is worth asking the restaurant in advance if they are licensed to sell alcohol.
Marrakesh is the forth largest city in Morocco and is seeped in history. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marrakesh
Where to stay..
There are 100's of Riads in Marrakech. Do your homework. Look at the reviews. Rooms are minimally decorated. Often they are not heated. In Summer that is fine but in Winter, evenings are cold so bring layers.
Breakfast is always included and is a wonderful. Fresh bread, homemade lemon cake, fresh orange juice, home made jams - utterly delicious. Dinner too is often available but let them know in advance.
Riads are often tucked away, down little alleys. Don't be put off, the outside may look a little shabby but do not be deceived... some are palatial. Prices vary but Riads are considerably cheaper than hotels. I would aim to go for something around 120-250 euro a night. Any cheaper could be risky however you might be lucky.
I have stayed at many but these are my 3 favs:
Riad Olema Spa - https://www.riadolema-spa.com
This is first Riad I stayed in many years ago. Owned and run by a lovely French lady. From the minute you arrive you are made feel so at home. Open fire in the communal area is heaven.
Izza Marrakech - https://izza.com
Back in the 60's and 70's Marrakech was the hip place to hangout and unquestionably the mecca in the world of bohemia. Bill Willis (1937-2009) was the leading light of Moroccan-style interior design. He breathed new life into the traditional techniques of North African craftsmen, boldly rewriting the rules of these ancient methods. His life was as captivating as his art. was a much celebrated interior designer. Willis was friends with the whose who of Bohemia. This short film gives you an insight into his life and Marrkesh at the time https://www.billwillis.com
Izza is Bill Willis's old Riad and another 6 Riads knocked together. I was fortunate enough to stay there just as it was opening. The art collection is exceptional. It is chic beyond words. Heavenly rooms. The team are the dream. I haven't had dinner at the Riad but have heard great reports. If you don't stay there please just go and have a look - it's very special.
L'Hotel Marrakesh
This charming retreat is owned by Jasper Conran. L’Hôtel Marrakech combines superb Moroccan craftsmanship with pieces of Jasper’s antique furniture, textiles, lighting and art – some of which were acquired from the personal collections of Bill Willis and Yves Saint Laurent.
https://www.l-hotelmarrakech.com/lhotel/
Without question, I would choose to stay at a Riad however if this is not your vibe there are a host of luxury hotels and resorts. The Mandarin Oriental has just opened a hotel just outside Marrakech and looks stunning https://www.mandarinoriental.com La Mamounia https://mamounia.com/en/ and Royal Mansour https://www.royalmansour.com/en/both very traditional in design and super luxurious. The Oberoi recently opened https://www.oberoihotels.com/hotels-in-morocco-marrakech/
I adore The Beldi Country Club https://beldicountryclub.com it is about 20 mins outside Marrkesh. I would strongly recommend going there for lunch. The Beldi shop is also lovely.
La Sultana https://www.lasultanahotels.com I have not stayed here but Emma in the shop has and raved about the La Sultana by the coast. There is La Sultana in Marrakesh which looks incredible (££££)
Sightseeing
The Bahia Palace and the old koranic school Medersa Ben Yousef are my favourite places for architecture. Bahia Palace and Madersa Ben Youseff are beautiful examples of architecture and decoration. Also the Saadian Tombs. Also visit Dar Is Said which is just by the Bahia Palace and only 30 dirhams. This is a must. Bahia is 70 dirhams. Madersa is the same or maybe a little less. There are amazing examples of Zellij which is the moroccan tiles.
If you go to the Bahia Palace there is a street that will lead you back to the main square or souk which has lot of lovely shops. Lally, Marie Bastide, Warda la Mouche, Hanout and so many others.
Dar El Bacha is a fabulous place for coffee and morning snack or even breakfast but be prepared to wait for a table. You could visit the museum while you wait for a table https://darbacha.com
Art Galeries : Galerie 127 for contemporary photography, David Bloch gallery for young and up and coming street artists, La Maison de La Photographie for old pictures....
Jardin Majorelle - this is a given. https://www.jardinmajorelle.com/en/
FOOD !
- Delicious Moroccan food (dinner) : The Moroccan Restaurant at La Mamounia or "a la carte" at Al Fassia (try the lamb shoulder for 2)
- Best value and the best couscous (only on friday lunch) : Women’s Association Amal- restaurant solidaire - Guéliz - New Town
- Kechmara - very well known for lunch in the GuélizNew Town (burgers, salads and daily specials) - but less well known for its very stylish hidden roof terrasse - gets lively in the evening with cool music and locals drinking at the bar. Great with kids too at lunchtime for burgers.
- Lunch in the desert : www.scarabeo-camp.com. 30 mins from Marrakech, amazing and very exotic, very Out of Africa!. Food is delicious.
- Glamorous : early drinks at La Mamounia or Royal Mansour https://mamounia.com/en/ https://www.royalmansour.com/en/
- Nomad : same owner as Le Café des Epices & Le Jardin. Cool spot for lunch and great for dinner in the middle of Medina.
- La Trattoria : beautiful decor. Good Italian food. Love going there for drinks. New Town.
- La Famille : delicious vegetarian fresh food - only open for lunch - great boutique round corner too.
- El Fenn - A MUST delicious lunch and dinner. Fantastic sundowners. Wonderful shop - BOOK WELL IN ADVANCE https://el-fenn.com
- Izza - Food meant to be very good https://izza.com
- Kabana - Cool vibe. Great easy food in a lovely atmosphere
- Dar Essalam - very good traditional cuisine
- Plus61 Marrkesh - new restaurant introduced by my friend Sara who raved about it. https://plus61.com
- Famers https://www.farmersmarrakech.com - introduced again by a friend. rave reviews.
- Nomad in the Medina - always good. Great atmosphere. Book in advance https://nomadmarrakech.com
SHOPPING !
- MEDINA/SOUKS (open every day)
Medina shopping : DAR EL BACHA : nice area in the souks. Stop at Dar El Bacha palace by car then walk from there. On the left : A MUST DO : Mustapha Blaoui’s shop for the most beautiful homeware
then walk the opposite side towards Souk Cherifia/Terrasse des Epices (on the way stop at Topolina boutique)
Then get lost in the Souks... buy leather belts and "K-Jacques" style sandals , leopard slippers, old kilim pillows, wood kitchen stuffs, straw bags... leather poufs because they can be fold !!... etc... see my tips to bargain :
Stop for coffee at Le Café des Epices on the Spice Market, buy colorful hats for kids
Nice Rugs :
- Sofiane : trendy, colorful, chic rugs
- Berber Loom : good value fashionable boucharouite rugs.
- NEW TOWN :
RUE DE LA LIBERTE (shops open monday to saturday - but closed 12.30-3.30pm!)
Place Vendome : for great leather wallets for men - always hard to find gifts for men - the is THE place. Nice belts and men's leather goods
Ben Rahal : beautiful rugs
Madame Alami : great Moroccan patisserie
L'Orientaliste : for amazing perfumes and candles (Fleur d'Oranger is divine - great gifts)
Atica for shoes
Moor & Akbar Delights : very stylish tuniques and homeware
Michèle Baconnier : jewelry and summer indian dresses and sarongs
David Bloch gallery : for art
Atelier Nihal : for hanvowen textile
Scenes de Lin : stylish homeware
near Rue de La Liberté:
Lalla - 35 boulevard Mansour Eddahbi (near Bab Hotel) open 10-7pm non stop . MY handbags boutique !!
ART/C - one of a kind great unique pieces
Kaftan Queen - for great tuniques @ beach kaftans
La Galerie des Tanneurs - for leather
HDWVN : American textile Designer Randall Bachner new brand. By appointment.
FENNWERK : contemporary Berber rugs. By appointment : nicolas@fennwerk.com
- MAJORELLE (open every day 10am-6pm)
In front of Majorelle gardens : shopping at 33 Majorelle, concept store in front of Yves St Laurent Gardens (buy new label called Chabi Chic - kitchen ware & ceramic = very nice)
on the side street : beautiful rugs at ANITAN - Faiza Lahlou
Corinne Bensimon - bespoke and trendy homeware
- INDUSTRIAL AREA (open monday to friday, some showrooms by appointment)
Best to do in the morning (not nice area/ go on 2 hours mission ! then back to the pool ;-) )
FENIYADI: Candles, bedlinen and ceramicFeniyadi is still there for Amira candles, Vianotti bedlinen and Akkal ceramic
TUNIQUES :Le Dressing de Stella for nice summer tuniques (next to Feniyadi)
SOPHISTICATED TEXTILE : Atelier Nihal
AMAZING STRIPY TEXTILE : Florence Teillet - call for appointment. A MUST VISIT !!! One of my favourite showroom here : Florence 0661225905 / atwflo@yahoo.fr
COSMETICS : Les sens de Marrakech (for argan oil products and nice soaps)
BEAUFITUL HOMEWARE : Magasin General - very stylish selection of furniture, linen and objects. Very colonial chic.
Chabi Chic https://www.chabi-chic.com and also a fabulous interiors shop called Sarayan check them out on instagram @maisonsarayan. High end but fabulous. It the industrial part of Marrakech so a bit of a trek but they have a restaurant/coffee shop inshore.
You will need a driver to take you to the Industrial area (30 min drive). Taxis are not very expensive.
- OTHER :
- 1 night at La Pause (amazing place in the small desert of Agafay or 1 night at Bab Ourika
- to do with kids : Souks, horse carriages, when sunny Oasiria (great pool, nice for parents too), lunch: La ferme Jnane Tihihit https://www.jnane-tihihit.com/fr/at le Barrage, Hotel Fellah
(trendy new hotel but kids friendly), Anima garden... -
- Hammam/spa : Les Bains de Marrakech or new-ish : Hammam de la Rose in Dar El Bacha THIS IS A MUST!! https://www.hammamdelarose.com/en/ -
- Cooking class at La Maison Arabe or Soukcuisine.com
- La Palmeraie : lunch at very chic Hotel Les 2 Tours
- Art Galeries : Galerie 127 for contemporary photography, David Bloch gallery for young and up and coming street artists, La Maison de La Photographie for old pictures....
- Flea Market : Bab Khmis - every day except friday. Not as good at it used to be but still less touristy than the souks and sometimes good finds (old King's portraits, tent wooden sticks, old doors etc...)
- Popham Design ciment tiles : contact Samuel and Caitlin www.pophamdesign.com and visit their tiles factory. LOVE their very graphic and stylish designs…
A little housekeeping
Do not engage with anyone randomly trying to strike up a conversation. They are probably trying to sell you something or take you to someone who is trying to sell you something.
They go to great lengths to get your engagement and are very good at it. One guy pretended to be the waiter at the Riad we were staying in. Do not be afraid to be dismissive. Just keep walking.
In the souk they will try and sell you their wares. Avoid eye contact until you’re ready to buy.
Barter but not crazily.
Phones don’t work in the souk. Buy a local sim or buy an e- sim in advance. You’ll run out if a data in a second in Morocco. I use one called called Holafly https://esim.holafly.com
If driving do not speed. You will get stopped and fined. Sometimes you might get stopped and fined even if you were not speeding. Read into that what you will...
It is incredibly safe so don’t be afraid. I travel by myself often and have never felt remotely afraid or unsafe. You will never be harmed, they only want your business.
The souk is very confusing/a maze so make sure you remember landmarks. Use your sat nav and hence make sure you buy data in advance. They will try to help but will try to sell you something at the same time. It gets exhausting.
In the square they will try to give you the monkeys/snakes to hold. Do not take them unless you want to pay. They can get unpleasant if you don’t pay.
There are some amazing Villas to rent and compared to many European destinations, Marrakesh is really affordable.
El Goute
I was introduced to El Goute by its owner Sara, one of my followers. Sara is so knowledgable about all things Marrakesh and has been really helpful in putting this together. Check out El Goute - it looks so beautiful.
We have been going on holiday to Morocco for the last sixteen years and immediately fell in love with the country . From the moment you get off the plane you are transported to a different world, the sounds, the smells, the light and the people lift the spirit. We wanted to find a property of our own that could provide a beautiful, tranquil oasis but yet be close enough to the vibrant city of Marrakech which we have come to consider our second home.
Having three children of our own we know that a self catering holiday can sometimes be a busman's holiday so we wanted to offer a service where all your catering needs are taken care of.
From the moment you arrive at El Goute, our housekeeper will look after you so that you can relax and unwind. All your food and drink shopping will be done for you and your personal chef will prepare breakfast and either an evening or lunchtime meal. If you want to venture out we can arrange excursions or trips into Marrakech or further afield.
El Goute is ideal for a family holiday or a place to be enjoyed with friends. Whether you want to use the house as a base for exploring Marrakech and the surrounding areas, or simply relax by the pool and enjoy the magnificent views of the mountains we will do our utmost to ensure you have a 5 star experience. If you want to play golf there are two excellent courses nearby.
The villa can accommodate 16 in total privacy.
Other great references:
Conde Nast - Guide to Gueliz
https://www.cntravellerme.com/story/a-guide-to-gueliz-marrakechs-coolest-neighbourhood
New York Times - Guide to Marrakesh
https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2024/02/08/travel/things-to-do-marrakesh.html
I hope you find this useful DM mes should you have any questions and please feel free to add any little fems you might want to share.
Lots of love
Rae xx